How to repair popped nails in patio and deck
How to clean your soffits
How to Paint your Window Frames
How do I apply wallpaper
How do I repair a hole in the wall
In order to help keep your deck looking like new and preventing any cuts, or injuries it’s important to take care of any popped up nails as soon as they are spotted. Not only will this extend the life of your deck by upholding its structural integrity, but your deck will look better and be safer for your family to enjoy.
For this project you will need:
Step 1 – Locate the popped nails
Nails generally pop out of wood decking from the changes in weather as well as from the expansion of water from thawing and freezing. Carefully inspect the floorboards especially in high traffic areas. Once you locate a popped nail you can use the pry bar section of the hammer to remove them. If the popped nail is not out far enough to grab you can weigh down the board with something heavy to cause the nail to protrude.
Step 2 - Replacing the Nails
You could hammer the popped nails back into the deck, but this is only a temporary fix. Since the nail popped out, it means the hole has become slightly larger than the nail. This means it is much safer to replace the nail. Use nails that are the same size as the other nails in your deck. Line the nail up close to the previous hole and nail it in place. A nail set has a short shaft made of metal with a blunt and narrow tip. You can use this instrument to push the nail further into the wood by setting the top of the nail under the surface.
Step 3 - Fixing Popped Nails for Good
Owning a deck means that getting popped nails is something that you simply cannot avoid. However, when they do happen, you can stop them from happening again. After the offending nail has been replaced and sunk below the surface of the floorboard with the nail set you can now make sure it will not happen again.
Place a deck screw next to the nail you drove into the deck and screw it in place. Make sure that it is close enough so that the head of the screw slightly covers the top of the nail. This prevents the nail from popping up again. To further prevent the nail from popping up you will spread wood putty over the holes of both the screw and the nail. Use the putty knife to smooth the putty over the hole as well as to push it further inside.
When trying to spruce up the exterior of your home, don’t forget an often-overlooked area; the soffits, the underside of the roof overhang. Cleaning the soffit isn't a hard thing to do. But a few materials will help you along :
Step 1 - Prepare
Use a ladder to reach the soffit and hose down the soffit area.
Step 2 - Clean
Now that the soffit is wet, you can use the cleaning pad to wipe down the aluminum using aluminum cleaner. You can look into homemade cleaners or opt to buying one. Wipe the soffit with the cleaner, using a soft-bristled brush for areas that need to be scrubbed more. Allow any spots to soak that need it.
Step 4 - Finishing Up
After finishing up, it is possible that your soffit will have a few problem spots left over that were able to resist the cleaning you just gave them. If this is the case, you will need to give them some extra attention. Fill a bucket with hot water and some ordinary dish soap. Mix the two together, and dip your scrubbing brush in the mixture. You should be able to clean off any dirty spots by scrubbing them with your brush. Rinse the brush and dip it in soapy water again as needed.
Step 3 - Rinse
After you are finished cleaning, you can rinse off the soap with the hose. Allow the soffit to dry and check once it has to see if anything needs to be cleaned again. If so, repeat steps. Once you are finished and everything has dried, you may want to apply a sealer to the soffit, depending on the material.
Your window frames are more than just decoration; they provide structural integrity and insulation to a home. To keep them lasting longer and adding an extra bit of curb appeal, you can paint your window frames to help add a splash of color to your home
You Will Need:
Step 1 - Clean the Aluminum Window Frame
First you need to thoroughly clean the window frame with the soapy water and a clean cloth. You should also clean the windows themselves before this project
Step 2 - Tape the Window
Tape protects the window from excess paint, which results in an unprofessional look. You should tape the outer edges of the window with the painter's tape.
Step 3 - Prime the Window Frame
You need to use an appropriate primer for the material of your window frame. Some outdoor paints will have a built-in primer. Allow the primer to dry before you continue to the next step
Step 5 - Paint the Window Frame
Open the paint and stir it for about a minute to even the color. Dip the small paintbrush into the paint. Scrape all excess paint off the paintbrush on the side of the bucket. Smoothly drag the paintbrush up and down the window frame for an even coat of paint. Let the paint dry. Reapply numerous coats of paint until the window frame is completely coloured. Make sure to allow each coat of paint to dry before you apply the next.
Step 6 - Remove the Tape
To remove the tape from the window, pull the tape off at an angle, away from the painted area. Make sure to pull the tape away from the paint, not toward it. Use the razor knife to remove any paint that may have gotten on the window, but be careful not to scratch the window.
Wallpapering a room can be a time consuming job and requires attention to detail. However, the job can be made a lot easier if you have all your tools ready, as well as an action plan. So, before you start your wallpapering project, here's some wallpapering tips and tricks to help you with your project.
You will need:
Step1
Prepare you space, measure you walls, and gather your tools. Being organized will help the project go smoothly. Always remove any old wallpaper and clean the surfaces to be covered, repairing any holes or rough spots, then prepare all the surfaces by applying wallpaper primer. Also remember to remove and electrical outlet covers. And do any painting -- ceiling, trim, doors -- before you paper. It's easier to remove paste than paint.
Step 2
Pick a starting point.
The first strip of wallpaper will line up with the last strip of wallpaper you hang and the pattern should match up at that place. You will want to start and finish wallpapering in a corner, near the curtains or behind a door so that the mismatch is less obvious. The focal point of the room should have the fewest seams.
Measure out from your starting point and use a level to lightly draw a vertical straight edge on the wall. This line marks where the first strip of wallpaper should be placed.
Step 3
Cut the wallpaper
Lay the first roll of paper, print side down, on the flat work surface. Confirm the top and bottom of the pattern. Measure, then cut the first wallpaper strip to the proper length, adding a few extra inches at the top and bottom. (This will be trimmed off later). Measure and cut the next several strips in order, paying attention to pattern match.
There are four pattern types -- random match, drop match, straight across match and free match. Read more about wallpaper pattern matching.
Step 4
Activate the adhesive on pre-pasted paper.
If the wallpaper is pre-pasted, loosely roll up the first cut strip of paper right side out and immerse it in room-temperature water in the water tray or bathtub. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for immersion time. Pull the strip out of the water, allowing the wallpaper to unroll slowly.
Step 5
Apply wallpaper paste.
For un-pasted wallpaper, apply pre-mixed paste using a large pasting brush or paint roller, working from the middle to the ends. Be sure that all areas are covered with paste with no un-pasted spots. Gently fold the top of the sheet down to the middle so that the pasted sides touch. Next, fold the bottom edge up to the middle. This allows the paste to cure and keep it from drying out. Do not crease the wallpaper.
Step 6
Hang the wallpaper.
Starting at the ceiling, carefully unfold the top half of first piece of the wallpaper and gently place the side edge of the strip along the measured line. Don’t forget to leave a few extra inches of paper at the top and bottom for trimming later.
When the strip is in the right position, drop down the bottom half and gently smooth the paper against the wall with your hands, beginning at one edge and working your way across. Use a smoothing brush or damp sponge to smooth out any air bubbles. Use a seam roller to gently smooth down the edges of the wallpaper.
Step 7
Trim the excess paper.
Use a wide-blade putty knife to hold down the top of the wallpaper strip at the ceiling. Use the utility knife or straight-edge razor to trim the excess wallpaper. Repeat at the bottom of the strip. Carefully clean any paste from the ceiling and baseboard.
Wipe the strip of wallpaper with a clean, damp sponge to remove any paste and remaining air bubbles.
Step 8
Smooth the corners.
At the corners, measure from the last full-width strip of wallpaper to the corner. Add 1 inch to that measurement and cut the next strip of wallpaper to that width. Activate or apply paste to the strip.
Apply the wallpaper on the wall, making sure to smooth it totally into the corner for interior corners or around the corner for exterior corners.
At the corner, make a small slit from the top of the strip to the wall to allow the strip to lay flat at the ceiling. Repeat on the bottom to allow the strip to lay flat at the floor. Trim off the top and bottom and clean the strip.
Step 9
Hang around the corner.
Place the next strip of wallpaper on the wall so that it overlaps the extra 1 inch of paper from the previous piece.
Repeat hanging the strips around the room.
Continue hanging the next strips of wallpaper, taking care to match the pattern, trimming at the ceiling and floor, removing any creases or air bubbles, securing the seams, and cleaning the paste off the paper.
Step 10
Replace light switch and plug plates.
If desired, cover the switch and plug plates with wallpaper, taking care to match the wallpaper pattern.
Eventually it will happen, either when moving furniture or doing some home renovations. A hole in the wall is unsightly but can be fixed quickly and easily. Most wall holes are punched through drywall or plaster. For either of these, you will need to apply a plaster joint compound. In the case of a deep hole, the damage may have extended to the underlaying paneling and you will need to add a piece of wood or sheetrock to fill the hole as well.
Tools Needed:
Step 1
For fist-size holes or bigger, cut a square piece of Sheetrock slightly larger than the hole. Enlarge the hole so this patch will fit by placing the piece over the hole, tracing its outline, and cutting the wall along your marks with a utility knife.
Step 2
Cut two pieces of small scrap wood a few inches longer than the width of the hole — these will be the backing for the patch. Put one piece of wood in the hole, hooking it with your fingers to hold it flat against the back of the existing wall. The wood will span the hole, parallel to and about an inch from its edge. With drywall screws, screw each end through the drywall into the wood. Repeat with the other wood scrap at the opposite edge of the hole.
Step 3
Now lay the Sheetrock patch in the opening and screw it to the wood. Cover the seams with mesh dry-wall tape. Apply a first coat of joint compound (like Spackle) with a putty knife over the mesh. For a smooth finish, apply thin, wide coats, not one thick layer. Let dry overnight. Apply two more coats, and let each dry overnight, sanding smooth between applications. Sponge away dust, and paint to match the wall.
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